Edward blackfan



(No Model.) 5Sheets-Sheet 1'. E. B. MOOR'E .& G. REHPUSS.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,445. Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

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(No Model.) 5Sheets-Sheet 2. E. B. MOORE & G. RBHPUSS.

BUTTON'HOLB SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,445. Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

WITNESSES:

. LNVENTEIFiE:

(No Model.)

JSheets-SheetB.

E. B; MOORE & G. REHPUSS.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Sept. 21-, 1886,

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INVENTUHES:

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(No Model.) JSheets-Sheet 4.

E. B. MOORE & G. REHFUSS. BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,445,- Patented Sept. 21,1886.

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(No Model.)

' 'S-heecsSheet 5. E. B; MOORE & G. REHPUSS.

BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 349,445. Patented Sept. 21, 1886.

WWI-Masses ENVENTEJHE' 40 MM I UNITED STATES PATE T OFFICE.

EDWARD BLAOKFAN MOORE, OF \VEST CHESTER, AND GEORGE REHFUSS, OFPHILADELPHIA, PA., ASSIGNORS TO SAID EDWARD B. MOORE.

BUTTON-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 349,445,dated-September 21, 1886. Applieation filod July 22, 1885. Serial No.172,292. (No model.) 7

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that we,-E1)wAR1) BLAOKFAN MOORE, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at West Chester, in the county of Chester, State ofPennsylvania, and GEORGE REHFUSS,

a citizen of the United States, residing at Philadelphia, in the countyof Philadelphia and State aforesaid, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Button-Hole Sewing- Machines; and we do herebydeclare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of theinvention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which formpart of this specification, in which Figure l is a plan of under side offeedslide, showing diskin the position it occupies when button-hole hasbeen completed. Fig. 2 is a plan of same,.showing position parts occupyin stitching first-side of button-hole. Fig. 3 is a plan of mechanismand parts below the feed-slide, the latter being removed. Fig. 4 is aplan with feed-slide in position, the slide being represented in dottedlines and the mechanism beneath shown in full lines, as if said slidewere transparent. Fig. 5 is a transverse section on line :0 at, Fig. 6.Fig. 6 is a plan of under side of bed-piece. Fig. 7 is a verticalsection, on enlarged scale, of the joint between the looper-carrier andits retractinglever. Figs. 8 and 9 are transverse vertical sectionstaken on lines 9 y and 'z z, respectively, of Fig. 6. Fig. 10 is aplanof feed-mechanism, the feed-slide being shown as if transparent, and theparts in position for the rotation of the disk. Fig. 11 is a verticalsection showing clamp and button-hole locating device, and includingneedle-bar and head or fork. Fig. 12 is a vertical section offeed-slide. Fig. 13 is a vertical section showing needlebarwithadjustable bearings. Figs. 14 and 15 are respectively a plan and aside elevation of eccentric bearing for needle-bar.

Our invention has relation to that class of sewing-machines which areadapted to stitch a button-hole having a rounded end, and in which thecloth orfabric in which the buttonhole is formed is moved by means of afeedslide consisting of a plate carrying a rotary disk.

Our invention further relates to that class of sewing-machines in whichthe button-hole stitch is formed by means of a needle and a looper, theformer being secured in the usual manner to a needlebar above thecloth-plate and the latter to a carrier that moves in aguide below saidcloth-plate.

Our improvements consist in the peculiar construction and combinationsof parts hereinafter fully described andspecifically claimed.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, A (in Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 10)designates the clothplate of a sewing-machine, which is designed to befitted in a suitable table, and preferably .flush with the top of thelatter.

B (in Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6, and 9) represents the bed-piece of the machine,which is a casting to which the cloth-plate is secured or with which itis made integral. Said cloth-plate is recessed on its upper side, asshown at O, to receive the feed-slide D, the'longitudinal edges of saidrecess being inclined or beveled, and said slide being provided on itsunder side with a bevel-edged block, (Z, and a springslide, (1, whichfits into or beneath said edges, holding the feed-slide down on thecloth-plate, but permitting its longitudinal movement thereon.

The feed-slide comprises the plate D and the rotary or swivelcd disk G,carried thereon.

E is the feed-plate guide, and consists of a plate rigidly fastened inthe recess G, at the inner end of the latter, by means of a screw, 6,which passes down into thebed-piece B, said guide having a slot, 0,which is traversed by a roller on a screw-pin, cl, projecting downwardlyfrom the feed-slide D. Said pin d" receives a screw, (1 holding awasher, d, and encircled by a spiral spring which fits between the headof the screw and said washer, this construction (shown in Fig. 12)holding the inner end of the feed-slide down on the guide and operatingto guide said feed-slide',as herev inafter fully explained.

The feed-slide plate D carries a disk, G, swivelcd therein so as to becapable of rotary motion on its vertical axis, to which disk thereshould be attached a cloth clamp and spreader of suitableconstructionsuch as are ordinarily employed in button-holesewing-machines of the class to which ourimprovements relate-said clampand spreader being illus trated in Fig. 11 of the drawings, (designatedby the letter 3 To impart a rectilinear motion to the feedslide andarotary motion to the disk the slide is provided with a straight rack andthe disk with a segmental rack, said rack's being on the under side ofsaid feed-slide and disk, respectively. The straight rack is shown at H,and consists of a toothed bar, pivoted at h to the feed-slide in arecess formed on the under side of the latter, and having at itsopposite end aspring-catch, h,which engages with a stud, h, on the underside of said feed-slide. When so engaged, the rack-barH is held rigidly,parallel with the long sides of the feed: slide and aligned with theline of feed movement of said slide. Said rack then meshes with apinion, 71, fast on the same shaft with a ratchet-wheel, i, said shafthaving its bearings in the bed-piece B. The ratchet z" is given anintermittent rotation by means of a pawl, 41*, carried on an arm, I,which is swiveled at one end on the ratchet-shaft '5 and pivotallyconnected at its other endto a link, It. Said link is secured by ahinge-joint to an arm, fast on a rock-shaft, K, supported in bearings 7616 on the under side of the bedpiece B. Said shaft K is caused to rockin its bearings by means of a lever, L, which is pivoted at Z to thebed-piece B, and to an arm, R of shaft K, said arm being longitudinallyslotted for the reception and adjustment of a screw, 1, which unitessaid lever L and arm 70 pivotally together. The lever L is caused tooscillatein a vertical plane, when the main shaft M rotates, by reasonof the fact that a pin, 1*, which projects laterally from said lever,passes into a cam-groove in the end of a cam, m, on said main shaft. Byadjusting the screw Z in the slot in the arm k the extent of rotation ofthe pinion i at each step or impulse, and consequently the space betweenthe stitches, may be regulated and varied.

To impart rotary motion to the disk G the latter has formed on its undersideasegmental rack, 9, consisting of teeth radially disposed withreference to the eye 9 or rounded end of the button-hole slot 9 in saiddisk. With the teeth of this segmental rack there engages a tooth,'n, ona lever, N, which is pivoted at one end to a rock-arm, K, on shaft K,its opposite end, a", being forked and straddling a cam, m on the mainshaft M, whereby a motion similar to that of a four-motion feed-bar isimparted to said tooth n, the latter during its upper horizontalmovement engaging with the teeth of rack g successively, and duringitsother movements being out of contact with said teeth. The feed-slidemust first slide length wise while the first straight side of thebuttonhole is being stitched, and then obliquely while the first part ofthe eye is being stitched, and these lengthwise and oblique movementsmust be impartedby the pinion i and rack H in conjunction with guide E.Then the slide should dwell or come to a state of rest-while whichdepends from the under side of the disk G and stands outside therack-teeth g. 0 is a rod fitted in bearings 0 0 on the bed-piece B. Saidrod is adapted to be movedlongitndinall y in said bearings, and carriesnear its inner end. astud or collar, 0, which lies in the path of theflange G, so that when the feed-slide has made its first obliquemovement, already referred to, said flange G will meet and impingeagainst said collar 0, thereby imparting an inward longitudinal movementto rod 0 against the resistance of an encircling spiral spring, 0, whichrests between a shoulder, 0, and one of the bearings 0. O is connectedat 0 to a lever, B, pivoted at p to the bed-piece B, and which rests incontact with a pin, 2", on the pawl i, so that when the describedlengthwise movement of the rod 0 takes place the pawl i is thrown out ofengagement with the ratchetz", as shown in Fig. 10, so that no movementis then communicated to said ratchet or to the pinion c'. When thisoccurs, the straight rack H comes to a state of rest and the feed-slideis stationary,and this The outer end of rod takes place just after thefeed-slide makes its first oblique movement, or when the pin d attainsthe apex of the projection e of the slot 6' in the guide 6. The tooth itnow engages,

' as already described,with the teeth of the segmental rack of the diskG, and imparts by intermittentimpnlses,or by a step-by-step movement, ahalf-rotation to said disk, moving the latter from its initial position(shown in Figs.

2, 4, and 10) to its second position. (Shown in Fig. 1.) WVhile saidhalf-rotation is being effected the flange G, impinging against thecollar 0, moves the rod 0 longitudinally inward,as

already described, and holds it so that the pawl l "i is kept out ofengagement withthe ratchet i,- fbut the moment the half-rotation isaccomplished, and when. the disk is brought to the position shown inFig. 1, the flange G clears the collar 0 or passes out of contacttherewith, whereupon the spring 0 restores the .rod 0 to its firstposition, (shown in Fig. 3,) thus bring ing the pawl 13 into operativeconnection with the ratchet i. The feedslide is then moved obliquely, asthe roller or pin d moves down the incline of the projection 6 into thepart c of slot 0, and then straight along until the stitching of thesecond straight side of the button-hole is accomplished.

Referring now particularly to Figs. 5 and 6, Q represents a blockrigidly secured to the bed-piece B, transverse of the latter, butslightly oblique. This block has in its side a segmental or curvedgroove, q, in which moves a) carrier, Q, to which is attached the looperQ, the latter being in the form of a curved eye-pointed needle. Saidcarrier is in the form of a curved slide, which moves annularly and hasa curvilinear reciprocating movement in a vertical plane imparted to itby means of a crank-lever, R. Said lever is fulcrumed on a screw, 1',that passes into the bed-piece B, and the short arm of said levercarricsa pin, 1*, on which is a roller that moves in a sinuous groove, min a cam, M, on the main shaft M. Thelong arm of said lever B isconnected with the carrier Q by a joint, S, of peculiar construction,which peculiar joint is necessary, owing to the fact that while the endof the lever oscillates in a horizontal plane the carrier has acurvilinear movement in a vertical plane through the plane ofoscillation of said lever. This joint is constructed as follows: A rigidpin, 8, projecting laterally from the carrier Q has fitted onit asliding sleeve, 8, which is formed with a spherical swell or bulb, 8that fitsin a socket, s, in the head sof a swivel-pin, 8 This pin 8 fitsand has liberty of vertical and rotary movement in an opening or eye inthe end of the long arm of lever B. \Vhen the lever B oscillates andcommunicates motion to carrier Q, the sleeve s slides on pin 8, and pins swivels or turns back and forth and also slides longitudinally in itsbearing.

The movements of the respective parts described are such that one stitchis formed for every progressive movement of the feed-slide and rotarydisk.

T represents the spool for the looper-thread, which passes, as shown,around the tension T, through the guidest t, thence through an eye, q,in the block Q, thence through the eye of the take-up U, thence throughanother opening, g in block Q, and finally through the eye No. 314,046,and which need not, therefore, be

herein particularly described. Instead, however, of using such patentedcutter and die, we may, when operating in leather, cut the button holesbefore placing the material in position to have such hole stitched. Insuch case we employ the device shown in Fig. 11, for the purpose ofassisting the location of the fabric in its proper position. Such deviceconsists of a block, 1, which is in plan of the shape and size of thebutton-hole, and normally occupies a position in a recess, 2, in thebedplate directly belowthe position of the button-hole in the fabricwhen the latter is placed in the clamp before said clamp is moved withtheslide into position forstitching. The clamp is carried on the rotarydisk and the latter moves with the slide, said slide being drawn partlyout, as shown in Fig. 11, when locating an already-cut button hole. Thisblock 1 is carried upon a stem, 3, which fits and has liberty ofvertical movement in an opening, 4, in the bed-piece B.- Said stem hasat its lower end a shoulder or head, 5, and between this latter and thebed-piece B a spiral spring, 6, encircles the stem 3. The tendency ofthis spring is to press the stem 3 down and hold the block 1 intherecess 2 and below the plane of the cloth-plate A. A curved arm, 7,which is pivoted at 8 to lugs I) 1), depending from the bed-piece B, hasits outer extremity just below the lower end of stem 3. A lever, 9,which is pivoted at 10 to one of the legs X of the sewing-machine table,carries on the outer extremity of its short arm an antifriction roller,11, which bears against the under side of arm 7, the long arm 12 ofsaidlever depending in such manner that it can be readily moved by theoperators pressing her knee laterally against it, such lateral movementelevating the block 1 above the upper surface of the cloth-plate. Thebutton-hole to be stitched is now slipped over the block 1, and themachineclamp duly turned down. The block 1. is then permitted to descendinto the recess, theoperator reliew ing the lever-arm 12 of pressure.The spiral spring 6 aids the descent of the block, a retracting-spring,13, between the lever 9 and leg X acting to restore the lever to itsnormal position. A stud or pin, 14, on leg X limits the retractilemovement of lever 9. It may be observed that when the bed -piece B israised on its hinges or thrown back on thesewing-machine table in theusual manner when oiling, & c., itwill not carry with it the lever 9,the latter being pivoted to the table-leg X and not fastened to the arm7, although impinging against the latter.

Tograduate the length of the stitch or distance from the edge ofihebutton-hole at which the needle enters the fabric, the needle-bar 0,Fig. 11, is arranged to slide vertically in two boxes or bearings, c c,which are fitted in the forks 0 Fig. 13, of the head of the machine Theopenings 0" in these boxes in which the needle-bar fits and moves areeccentric to the longitudinal vertical axes of said boxes, so that byturning the latter around in the forks 0 Fig. 13, the plane of movementof the needlebar will be altered or said bar moved to one side oranother, so as to cause the needle to enter the fabric being stitched ata greater or at a less distance from the edge of the buttonhole. Tofacilitate this adjustment the boxes 0 c are formed with milled heads ac, which are provided each with a scale on their upper sides to registerwith marks on the forks C, Fig. 13, so that both boxes may be moved uniformly in order to keep the needle-bar vertical and truly aligned withthe openings in the boxes 0 c.

To hold the bearings in any adjustable position they are formed with adjusting-holes c, 111- to any one of which is entered a sct-screw, c,which passes through an opening/in the ma chine-head.

To adapt the machine to sew button-holes with various sizes of eyes theguide E is provided with detachable shoes 6 e, which have formed on themthe projection e and the depression e opposed thereto. By varying thesizes and shapes of these projections and de pressions on differentshoes, the latter being interchangeable, button-holes having eyes ofvarious sizes and shapes may be stitched on the same machine. Theseinterchangeable shoes are fastened in position by screws 6,

which pass into the bed-piece of the machine.

In operation the fabric is placed in position on the feed-slide, theclamp turned down there on, and the spreader, which is usually providedwith such clamp, caused to distend the button-hole, the latter beipg outeither before the fabric is placed on the feed-slide or afterward, asmay be desired. The fabric being clamped and the hole spread, thefeed-slide is moved into position to bring the clamp below theneedle,and the machine is started by rotating the main shaft. Therotation of the said shaft communicates, through the medium of theintermediate parts described, a progressive intermittent movement to thefeed-slide, a stitch being formed in such fabric and over the edge ofthe button-hole between every impulse or step of said feed-slide. Whenor after one straight side of the button-hole is stitched,the feed-slidehas advanced so far that the roller on pin d meets the projection e inthe guide E. The movement being continued, the pin d and its roller.move along the forward or.op-' posing side of said projection, whichcauses the feed-slide -to swing or travel obliquely, and while it is sotraveling the first quarter of the eye of the button-hole is stitched.By the time the pin (1 and its roller reach the point or apex of theprojection e the flange G meets and pushes against the collar 0, movingthe rod 0 lengthwise. This, as already described, brings the feed-slideto a state of rest or arrests it progressive movement by moving the pawlt out of engagement with ratchet i. The disk G is nowcaused to make ahalf-rotation, carrying with it the fabric clamped thereon, during whichtime, the needle and looper continuing their operation, the second andthird quar-' ters of the eye of the button-hole are stitched. As soon asthe disk has completed its half-rotation and arrived at the positionshown in Fig. 1, the flange G on said disk clears the collar o. Thespring 0 now moves back rod 0 to its normal position, as seen in Figs. 3and 4, and so restores the pawl t .to engagement with the ratchet i,whereupon the feed-slide resumes its onward march. In such onward marchit is first swung obliquely, while the pin d", with its roller, istraveling down the incline on the inner side of projection 6 dur ingwhich period the fourth quarter of the eye is stitched, and it thentravels straight ahead, during which straight travel the second straightside of the button-hole is stitched. The clamp being then raised, thefabric is removed therefrom. The latch his now released from engagementwith the stud h, and the rack H thrown back out of engagement with thepinion z. The feed-slide is then moved back to its normal position, thedisk G being also rotated backwardly for a half-revolution when theslide has been moved half-way backthat is, when the stud to, throughwhich the loop ascends, is in the eye of the button-hole slot in saiddisk. The parts are then in position to stitch another button-hole.

What we claim as our invention is as follows:

1. In a button-hole sewing-machine feedslide comprising a sliding platecarrying a rotary disk having a flange or annular rib, G, thecombination, with said plate and flanged disk, of ratchet i, pawl i andintermediate connecting means, whereby the pawl is intermittentlydisengaged from the ratchet, substantially as shown and described.

7 2. In a button-hole sewing-machine feed mechanism, the combination,with feed-slide D, having straight rack H, and rotary'disk G, havingflange G, of ratchet t", pawl i, lever 1?, and rod 0, said parts beingarranged substantially as described, whereby a rotary movement of saiddisk will produce a longitudinal movement of said rod, which will throwsaid pawl out of engagement with said ratchet, substantially as shownand described.

3. In a button-hole sewing-machine feed mechanism, the combination, witha feed-slide carrying a rotary disk, said slide having a straight rack,H, and said disk having a segmental or annular rack, g, and a flange, G,of pinion z, ratchet i, pawl i having pin 2, lever N, having tooth n,lever P, and rod 0, having collar or stud o and spring 0, said rod 0 andlever 1? being connected, and the latter operating on the pawl, whichengages with said ratchet, whereby the ratchet receives motion from thepawl and communicates it to the pinion to move the rack and feed-slide,said pawl being moved out of engagement with said ratchet when thedisk-flange comes in contact with the collar or stud on rod 0 and movesthe latter and lever 1?, the toothed lever N then imparting motion tothe rotary disk, substantially as shown and described.-

4. The combination, with feed-slide D, having straight rack H, androtary disk G, having segmental or annular rack g and flange G, of pawl7?, ratchet '5, pinion 6, rod 0, having collar or stud 0 and retractingspring 0, lever I, and lever N, having tooth n, engaging with said IIOrack 9, said pawl having a stud on its tailbination, with theguide-plate E, of the detachable interchangeable shoes e, having,respectively, a projection and a depression, substantially as set forth.

6. Inabutton-hole sewing-machinc,the combination, with the needle-bar,of two eccentric boxes or hearings in the head or needle-arm, by theadjustment of which the length of stitch may be varied, substantially asshown and described.

7. In abutton-hole sewing-machine,the combination, with the block Q,having curvilinear groove q, of looper-carrier Q, lever B, and joint S,composed of pin 8, sleeve with ball or bulb s and pin 8 having socket inits head 8, substantially as shown and described, whereby said lever'reciprocating in a horizontal plane transmits a curvilinear movement ina vertical plane to said looper-carrier, substantially as set forth.

8. In abutton-hole sewing-machine, the com bination, with the feed-slideand stitch-forming mechanism, of means for locating a cut button-hole inposition, said means consisting of block 1, stem 3, having head 5 andspring 6, arm 7, and lever 9, said parts being constructed and combinedfor operation substantially as set forth.

9. The combination, with the bed piece, clamp, and stitch-formingmechanism of a sewing-machine, of a device for locating alreadycutbutton-holes accurately in such clamp for the action of thestitch-forming mechanism, said device consisting, essentially, of amovable button-hole block, 1, fitted in a recess in the bed-piece, andhaving mechanism connected therewith and located below the bed-piece,

substantially as described, for elevating it into position by leg motionto receive and locate a button-hole, substantially as shown anddescribed.

10. The combination, with an organized sewing-machine, of a device orapparatus for 10- eating an already-cut button-hole with reference tothe stitching mechanism, said device comprising a block constructed andadapted to enter an already-cutbutton-hole, said block being fitted andnormally resting in a recess in the bed-piece or below the cloth-plateof the machine, and a lever for elevating said block so as to cause itto project above the clothplate, substantially as shown and described.

11. The combination, with the bed-piece and stitchforming mechanism of-a sewing-machine, said bed-piece having a recess or slot, of a devicefor locating an already-cut buttonhole, said device comprising a blockconstructed and adapted to enter an already-cut button-hole, which blockfits in said recess or slot in the bed-piece, and is provided withmechanism for producing its projection above the plane of the surface ofthe bed-piece and its automatic retirement or descent in the recess,substantially as shown and described.

In testimony that we claim the foregoing we have hereunto set our handsthis 15th day of July, 1885.

EDWARD BLAOKFAN MOORE GEORGE REHEUSS. I \Vitnesses:

J. W. HAMPTON, Jr.,

CHAS. KILLER.

